Shoemaking



Dec. 10, 1946. B. F. LEE 2,412,521

SHOEMAKING Filed Feb. 7, 1946 2 Sheets-Sheet l Dec. 10, 1946.

B. F. LEE 2,412,521

SHOEMAKING Filed Feb. 7, 1946 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Patented Dec. 10, 1946 SHOEMAKIN G Bernard F. Lee, Framingham, Mass.,- assignor to Jacob Sandler, Brookline, Mass..

Application February 7, 1946, Serial No. 646,022

3 Claims. (Cl. 12142) The present invention relates to shoemaking and in particular to a novel process of making moccasin'type shoes.

Moccasins offer many advantages, particularly for young people since they are flexible, soft in all areas of contact, and easy to put on and take off. However, the method heretofore practiced for making moccasins has been exceedingly costly and drawn out, with the result that shoe manufacturers have not been particularly attracted to the manufacture of moccasin type shoes, since they must be made to sell comparatively cheaply.

The present invention has for its primary object to simplify and cheapen the manufacturing process as well as to produce a better moccasin than has heretofore been available.

I have discovered that it is possible to cut out and pre-fit the portions or members-which go to form a moccasin type shoe so that they may be assembled on a last and simultaneously united and lasted. In one aspect my invention consists in an improvement to the process disclosed in my prior Patent No. 2,381,356. The concept of simultaneously lasting the members of the upper and uniting them represents a radical departure from the processes known in the art and not only oifers decided reduction in the cost of manufacture of moccasion type shoes, but also results in a greatly improved product.

The objects and features of my invention will be more readily understood and appreciated from the following detailed description of a preferred manner of carrying out the process, selected for purposes of illustration and shown in the accompanying drawings, in which:

Fig. 1 is a plan view of a composite blank prepared for assembly and including the major portion of the upper of the shoe,

Fig. 2 is a bottom plan view of the forepart plu Fig. 3 is a view in perspective showing one step in the manufacture of a moccasin, and

Fig. 4 is a fragmentary view in perspective of the rear end of a moccasin illustrating the treatment of the backstay.

In practicing the process of my invention as herein shown I first provide a composite blank of upper material having the shape illustrated in Fig. l. The composite blank l includes a vamp or forepart portion l2, opposed quarters I B, and a rounded heel piece. These portions surround a sole-shaped area the shank portion of which is apertured as shown in, It. While the blank is flat, the edge of the vamp portion I2 is bevelled as shown at 18, and a row of thread holes is formed along the margin of the vamp spaced inwardly from the periphery of the bevelled edge l8. The thread holes l9 are spaced at uniform intervals and extend from the throat of the vamp forwardly around the tip. The rounded heel piece is similarly bevelled as shown at 40 and its margin is similarly pierced at uniform intervals to form a row of thread holes 42. Upon the completion of the bevelling and perforating steps, the edges of the cut l6 are brought together by a zig-zag seam (not shown). The drawing together of the edges of the cut l6 gives the proper contour to the shank portion of the shoe. Subsequently the rear edges of the quarters M are united by a butt seam or back seam 38 as suggested in Fig. 4.

I also provide a forepart plug 20, shown in Fig. 2. The plug 20 is bevelled along its edge as shown at 22 and provided with a row of thread holes 24 which preferably pierce the full thickness of the plug blank just back of the bevel edge 22. The interval between the thread holes 24 is uniform and smaller than the interval between the thread holes [9 along the edge of the vamp l2. The dimensions and contours of the plug 20 and the vamp portion l2 are such that when they are properly positioned upon a last the peripheries of the bevelled edges barely meet. This results in a substantial space between the opposed rows of thread holes l9 and 26.

A backstay 44 is secured to the rear end of the blank I 0 by a line of stitching 46 which leaves the lower portion of the backstay unsecured as illustrated in Fig. 4. The lower edge of the backstay 44 is bevelled and provided with uniformly spaced thread holes 48. Here again the distance between the thread holes 48 is shorter than the distance between the thread holes 42 in the heel piece of the blank [0. The backstay 44 overlies the back seam 38.

After the members have been thus prepared and dimensioned they are assembled upon a last 25 and temporarily tacked in position. The precise location of the tacks is not critical, but I have found it convenient to secure the vamp to the last by a single tack 26 driven through one of the thread holes [9 at the tip. A tack 30 is driven at the side through an intermediate thread hole, and a tack 32 is driven through the rearmost thread hole 24 of the plug 20 on the same side of the last as the intermediate tack 30. The track 32 passes also through the rearmost thread hole I9 in the vamp I2. It is only at this throat location that a single tack passes through both the plug and the vamp. The tip of the plug is also secured to the last by a pair of tacks 28 passing through thread holes 24. when the members have thus been temporarily secured to the last 25, I pass a thread 34, having at each end needles 35 and 38, through the rearmost thread holes of the vamp and plug at the'side opposite the tack 32. By passing the needles through the thread holes and looping the thread after each pass, I form a lockstitch uniting the vamp andthe plug. After each stitch is formed, it is tightened to draw the edges of the vamp and plug together and pull these pieces tightly over the last 25. When the sewing operation is first begun, the tightening of the stitches is resisted by all of the tacks described. The result is that the material of the vamp and plug stretches and conforms closely to the contour of the last 25. As the seam progresses from its origin forwardly to the tip, the tacks 28 and 26 are removed to make way for the seam. The tightening of the stitches is then resisted by the tacks 30 and 32 and also by that portion of the seam already formed. The result is that the lasting action is continued. Similarly the tack 30 is removed when the seam reaches that point,

- and the lasting effect is then carried out against the tack 32 and the portion of the seam already completed. The final step is to remove the tack 32 and complete the seam. It will thus be seen that the vamp and plug are united simultaneously with the lasting of the shoe. The uniform spacing of the thread always produces a fine, straight,

uniform seam much superior to that obtained in the ordinary hand sewing operation in which the thread holes are formed progressively with a hand awl.

When the forepart of the moccasin has been completed in the manner above described, a similar operation is carried out at the rear end of the shoe as suggested in Fig. 4. The backstay and heel piece are also so dimensioned that their edge extremities barely meet when the shoe is assembled on the last. By passing a thread 50 provided with needles 5| and 52 through the thread holes piece are united. The tightening of the stitches draws the backstay and heel piece together and effectively lasts the heel pocket. Here again the seam is more uniform than it is possible to produce by ordinary hand sewing methods.

The moccasin produced as the result of the steps described may be removed from the last and a sole attached by any conventional method. It should be pointed out that the time in the process at which the sole is attached is not critical.

Those skilled in the artwill appreciate that there are many possible variations and modifications of the process herein described, and reference to the appended claims should be made for a measure of the scope of my invention.

42 and 48 the backstay and heel.

Having thus disclosed my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. In a method of making moccasins, the steps comprising providing a first blank having a sole portion and a portion adapted to form an upwardly projecting portion of the upper, which latter portion is provided with a bevelled edge and a series of thread holes extending along the bevelled edge and passing through the full thickness of the blank; providing a second blank dimensioned to complement said latter portion in forming the upper, said second blank having a bevelled edge and a series of thread holes extending along the bevelled edge and passing through the full thickness of the blank; placing the blanks upon a last 'of such size and shape.

that the edge extremities of the blanks barely meet; and uniting the margins of the blanks by passing thread through said thread holes and tightening the stitches to conform the blanks closely to the last.

2. In a method of making moccasins, the steps comprising providing a blank having a sole portion and a portion adapted to form an upwardly projecting vamp portion of the moccasin, which 'vamp portion is provided with a bevelled edge and a series of thread holes extending along the bevelled edge and passing through the full thickness of the blank; providing a forepart plug having a bevelled edge and a series of thread holes extending along the bevelled edge and passing through the full thickness thereof; placing the blank and plug on a last of such size and shape that the edge extremities of the blank and plug barely meet; and uniting the margins of the blank and plug by passingthread through said thread holes and progressively tightening the stitches to conform the upper parts closely to the last.

3. In a method of making moccasins, the steps comprising providing a blank having a sole portion and a portion adapted to form an upwardly projecting vamp portion of the moccasin, which vamp portion is provided with a bevelled edge and a series of uniformly spaced thread holes extending along the bevelled edge and passing through the full thickness of the blank; providing a forepart plug having a bevelled edge and a series of thread holes extending along the bevelled edge and passing through the full thickness of the plug, the holes in the plug being uniformly spaced but closer together than the thread holes of the vamp portion; placing the blank and plug on a last of such size and shape that the edge extremities of the blank and plug barely meet; and uniting the margins of the blank and plug by passing thread through said thread holes and progressively tightening the stitches to conform the upper parts closely to the last.

. BERNARD F. LEE. 

